Translation. Region: Russian Federal
Source: Moscow Government – Government of Moscow –
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French fashion, military triumphs and one very ambitious but never realized project with an airship – all this is about the Vorontsovo estate. Art historian Veronika Teletskaya tells about its history and modernity – from curiosities to grandeur and a renovated space with a lecture hall and a library in the open air.
Boyar Voronets and the Wasteland of the Time of Troubles
“Our estate dates back to the 14th century, its first owner was the boyar Fyodor Voronets,” says Veronika Teletskaya. “He owned the estate for some time, but then it was most likely taken away from him for some sins that we don’t know about.”
So the estate has nothing to do with the famous Vorontsov counts. After the boyar Voronts the area went to the treasury, there were royal hunting grounds and places for rest, and in the Time of Troubles – a wasteland (not bare fields, but simply the absence of inhabitants).
Repniny: French chic and birch avenue
Everything changed in the 17th century, when Vorontsovo fell into the hands of the Repnin family, a military dynasty for whom the estate became the embodiment of ambition and fashion. The Repnins considered it their family home. “During their reign, Gothic gates, the Trinity Church, greenhouses, outbuildings, and the Vorontsov ponds appeared,” lists Veronika Teletskaya.
The main pond, by the way, was natural — fed by the Kotlovka and Ramenka rivers, but it caused the owners a lot of trouble. “Spills and rising waters flooded the estate. There was no asphalt — just mud,” the art historian explains. The issue had to be resolved — and so a cascade of four ponds appeared, which still exists today. Beautiful and practical — the water could now drain lower in level, and the flooding stopped.
The head of the family, Field Marshal General Nikolai Vasilyevich Repnin, decided to build… a birch avenue. “An estate tree is usually an oak and a linden, right? But Nikolai Vasilyevich did it differently,” says Veronika Teletskaya. “When an estate is built, the landowner is a king and a god. He wanted birches, and he planted birches.” True, they did not survive to this day, but 250-year-old oaks in the oak grove have survived – they were there when Nikolai Vasilyevich lived. The birch avenue became the main alley, but two more lead from the central entrance to the estate, forming a trident together. This is a reference to the French Versailles and the trident of Neptune – a symbol of power. Everything in the family nest was supposed to remind of the military exploits of the family. Alexander Pushkin wrote about the military distinctions of the Repnins in the poem “Poltava”:
These are the chicks of Peter’s nest – In the changes of earthly destiny, In the labors of state and war His comrades, sons: And the noble Sheremetev, And Bruce, and Bour, and Repnin…
These lines are about Nikolai Vasilyevich’s grandfather, General Anikita Repnin.
Gothic Gate and Forgotten Bridge
The ceremonial, or Gothic, gates are the calling card of the Vorontsovo estate. In the 18th century, they produced an incredible effect (and the owner clearly intended them to be so). The gates were built in honor of Nikolai Vasilyevich’s military victories in the Turkish wars. The gate turrets, on the one hand, refer to the Gothic style, and on the other, they resemble the Turkish bastions that were conquered by the Field Marshal. “They stood on the road from Moscow to Kaluga and Tula – and imagine what an impression they made on travelers!” says Veronika Teletskaya. The Humpbacked Bridge from the 1790s led to the gates; it was accidentally discovered by archaeologists in 2005. “Everyone forgot about it – it was lying under a layer of earth,” notes the art historian.
Airship with a gilded boat
A very charming (and slightly strange) page in the life of the Vorontsovo estate is the story of the construction of an airship. At the beginning of the 19th century, the estate became a testing ground for the construction of the first airship bomber in Russia. The descendants of Nikolai Vasilyevich lived in St. Petersburg, and rented out the lands and buildings of the family nest.
“There was an inventor named Franz Xavier Leppich,” says Veronika Teletskaya. “At first he proposed the idea to Napoleon, but the latter had already heard about his developments, did not appreciate them, and ordered Leppich to be expelled from France. Leppich did not lose his head – he came to the Russians, convinced Alexander I. They began to build.”
The idea was grandiose: a gilded boat lifted by a balloon, with a crew of forty people. “They spent a lot of money, but the “miracle of technology” did not take off. It did not even lift four people,” says the art historian.
During Napoleon’s troops’ stay in Moscow, the main house of the estate was badly damaged, and the owners decided to dismantle it.
A kitchen outbuilding with 18th-century fire-fighting technology and the unexpected hobby of noble men
Several interesting buildings have survived to this day. The western (kitchen) wing has a preserved barrel vault. “This is a specially shaped ceiling with an iron covering: if there was a fire in the kitchen, the fire would not spread to the second floor or neighboring buildings,” explains Veronika Teletskaya. No less curious are the Finnish tiled stoves. To heat the house, you had to first heat the basement, then the first floor, and only then the second.
As for the hobbies of aristocrats, it was not only balls and hunting – in the second half of the 18th century, Russian nobles (primarily, paradoxically, men) were keen on gardening. “Men grew exotic fruits – imagine having your own melon or strawberry out of season!” – says Veronika Teletskaya. Moreover, they exchanged seeds in letters. “There were even such complaints: I sent you seeds, but you didn’t send me!” – the art critic continues.
The tradition of serving fresh fruit at any time of year, which amazed foreigners, originated from such estate experiments. The Vorontsov greenhouse with its steam heating system (warm air rose from the cellar) and glass roof (a rare luxury for that time) reflected this fashionable hobby. The glass roof has not survived, but the building itself, which adorns the park, is currently being restored.
After the Repnins, the estate survived a series of owners and the dacha boom of the late 19th century. There was even a women’s prison here, where the revolutionary Maria Spiridonova was “re-educated.” And during the Great Patriotic War, barrage balloons were launched from here, which protected Moscow from air raids – as if the estate had justified the failure of the airship.
Karaoke with a piano and a library in the forest
Now the estate is experiencing a boom again. “City festivals and events for visitors of all ages, from children to the older generation, take place here,” says Maria Pashkova, the cultural and leisure manager of the Vorontsovo estate.
This summer, Vorontsovo became one of the sites of the festival “Moscow Estates”. On weekends, you can take part in noble games, picnics, promenades (the schedule is on the project’s website “Summer in Moscow”).
The dance floor and forest library are especially popular. The first, designed as a place for yoga and dancing, becomes a recreation area and a place for photo shoots in free time. The second is a space for unusual entertainment – for example, karaoke with a piano or master classes on creating boutonnieres.
For those who prefer active leisure, Vorontsovo offers a site with exercise machines for all muscle groups, a multifunctional sports area (skating rink in winter, volleyball and table tennis in summer), Nordic walking and dancing classes, as well as programs for participants project “Moscow Longevity”.
“Moscow Longevity has a lot of activities, some of the top ones are dancing, Nordic walking, general physical training. Sometimes we organize separate concerts and excursions for the program participants,” adds Maria Pashkova.
Vorontsov hosts themed excursions, among the most popular are: “One day in the life of a landowner”, hosted by Veronika Teletskaya.
The surviving buildings of the estate are bustling with life. The western (kitchen) wing attracts visitors with temporary exhibitions. Until July 31, the exhibition “Girl. Young Lady. Lady” is open here, where dresses, fans and other attributes of women’s life of the 19th century are presented. The most touching exhibits are dolls, doll dishes and accessories. Little young ladies arranged tea parties and visits for their dolls, at the same time learning how to properly set the table and mastering the rules of etiquette. In the eastern wing (the stable yard servants’ quarters), various thematic classes are held – from English to drawing, and the southern service building is used for master classes and lectures. Now a children’s theme camp is open there – it is dedicated to animation. There is also a lecture hall in the park. The schedule of classes, lectures, master classes and exhibitions can be found atofficial website of the estate and on her page in the service “Mosbilet”.
Today, the Vorontsovo estate and Vorontsov Park are a place where history lives in beautiful architecture, interesting exhibitions, open-air dancing and quiet walks under centuries-old oaks.
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